Beaten by the flat cap

This is my second attempt at making a flat cap and, to be honest, I wouldn’t care if I never saw a flat cap again. 

It all started with trying to make a muslin. I was attempting to size up both my OH and son. 

The resulting muslin looked something like this: 



Fed up with measuring I decided to go ahead and make the finished product for my son. I made a muslin in the correct size and was good to go. 

The first problem I had was transferring in pattern onto my fashion fabric. I usually use carbon paper and a pattern wheel, but the carbon just didn’t want to show on my tweed. Next, the tweed had a bit of stretch in it so I made the effort to stay stitch around all the edges. 

The construction itself wasn’t too bad but turned out uneven which led to shaving a bit here and tucking a bit there and so on. After a full afternoon of that my so had to leave to go back to university and I finally admitted defeat. 



Sitting on the table, it looks passable, but it is not yet a wearable garment. I’m going to give up on if for today and go and read my new Sewing Bee book, but I don’t think this is the end of my battle with the flat cap

Trousers!

Today I started my first proper trouser project, Burda 6873.

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I’ve had the pattern for a while and have been itching to get started on it. I bought the fabric before Christmas and I am keen to get going using my new over locker too.
I had been thinking about making a muslin of the main trousers but was tempted to dive straight in with the fashion fabric. However sense prevailed and I spent today making adjustments to the pattern for a perfect fit.

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All I need to do now is rip it all apart and get started on the main event. I have to admit a sense of trepidation as the pattern seems a little complicated on first glance. I feel I’m going to be on quite a learning curve over the next couple of weeks.

Ever Closer

Yesterday I began the process of pinning my muslin pattern to my fashion fabric. This was the first time I’ve pinned fabric as a single layer and attempted to match the pattern. Despite the fact that it took some time, I really enjoyed the process. I had a small panic about the amount of fabric that was required due to the size of the pattern and how often it it repeated on the fabric, so this is something I will need to bear in mind when buying fabric for this project again.

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Then today I have cut out the fashion fabric and marked the pattern pieces. Again, there was a certain pleasure in seeing the pattern pieces separate and pile up ready for making. I am also grateful to Father Christmas for putting a pattern marking wheel and carbon paper in my stocking. I wasn’t really sure what to do with them before now but love being able to mark the pattern onto the fabric quickly and easily.

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Hopelessly devoted to you.

I’ve been very busy, but over the past week have found a moment here or there to continue with my muslin. It’s surprising how much can get done little and often.
So, over the past 10 days I have stitched my muslin together and looked at it many times over from different angles. Happy with it on the body form, today I ventured into the dress myself (with the help of a willing husband.) There were one or two final adjustments before it was all ‘ripped at the seams’ and trimmed neatly, leaving me with a pile of new pattern pieces.
Now I’m going to break from the path of my Craftsy lesson. I am dispensing with the silk organza underlay. This if for two reasons: number one I am impatient and want together on with using my fashion fabric (that sentence will probably come back and haunt me at some point) and, two, I’m using a light weight cotton fabric so want to minimise the bulk.
I’m hoping that tomorrow I get time to start working with the fashion fabric. I have it out on the ironing board waiting and am eager to get started. This fabric was a gift from a friend so I hope I can do her justice.

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Weekend Workshop

It’s been a fairly busy weekend. Mum came over for a potter around town yesterday and today we went to visit the new puppy we are getting, but in between those times I have been working on my Vogue dress.

Following the instructions from the Craftsy tutorial, this weekend I cut out my calico, marked it with my pattern and stitched the seam lines. I have dipped my toe into the water of joining the pieces, but the rest of that will have to wait.

This is the first time I have made a muslin in the traditional sense and I have to say I’m loving it. I thought I was too impatient for all the faff of making a muslin but I am really enjoying the freedom that comes from cutting the fabric roughly, the quick marking of the pattern lines and the sense that I’m moving towards something on a whole new level of perfection.

Very enjoyable.

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Decadent Pinning

I was limited to time today as sorting out driving insurance for my newly passed son was top of my list. However, I did manage to pin my marked pattern pieces to my calico to make my muslin. I took heed from the Craftsy class and measured from the grain line to ensure that the pieces were correctly placed. I have also allowed plenty of allowances around the edge. Despite being a size 20 in this Vogue pattern (!!!!) the pieces still look a bit on the small side now that I’ve marked the seam lines.
I can’t wait to get cutting and transferring the pattern makings onto the fabric. I am really enjoying this process.

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Craftsy Couture

There’s been a bit of a lull on the sewing front of late. This is primarily due to trying to fit an awful lot of work into the last few weeks of term. But do not be fooled! Although the sewing machine has remained quiet I have been developing my skills in other ways.

A few months or weeks ago, I can’t actually remember, I bought my first Craftsy lesson. It wasn’t the first Craftsy lesson I had subscribed to, but it was the first one I had actually parted with money for. I bought it on a whim while it was in a sale and, as it came with an actual real-life pattern, it was similar in cost to nipping to the shop. The lesson I bought was The Couture Dress with Susan Khalje. The link here will take you to the classes page, but if I try to find the actual class, it takes me to my own page and resumes the lessons where I left off.

Sure enough, not too long after a Vogue 8648 pattern found its way through the letter box. I marked as the Craftsy pattern and there it stayed, until today!

About a week ago I started watching the said lesson. What a revelation. I was hooked from the start. Susan Khalje, who teaches the lesson is incredibly engaging and a vast wealth of knowledge when it comes to making bespoke, made to measure garments. Her asides are fascinating in themselves, but the actual content is brilliant to watch.

So last week I found myself behaving like an addict – sneaking upstairs to see the next useful snippet. Over the week I watched closely as Susan cut and marked her pattern, transferred that onto the muslin, stitched the garment together then made adjustments on her model. Feeling inspired I rushed out and bought some calico and, back in the sewing room tonight, took my first steps towards couture sewing.

But don’t expect to hear the buzz of a sewing machine anytime soon. Today I cut out the pattern pieces and marked them ready. The dining room table is now covered in small red marks where my permanent marker made it through the pattern paper, but I don’t care! My next step will be to prepare my muslin fabric, but that can wait. I don’t want to rich and make silly mistakes. Wish me luck!

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